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Mendocino, California. Delivery all over Northern California. Call or text (909) 259-7837

Free RV manual

How an RV Water Heater Works

Gas, electric or both. How to fill it, light it, drain it and care for the anode rod, plus what to do when there is no hot water.

The kinds you will find

Most RVs have a tank water heater that holds six or ten gallons. It heats on propane, on 120 volt power, or on both at once. Newer rigs may have a tankless unit that heats water only as it flows.

Suburban tanks are steel with a glass lining. They need an anode rod to stop rust. Atwood tanks, now sold by Dometic, are aluminum and do not use an anode. Look at the plate on the outside door to see which you have.

Fill it before you turn it on

Never turn on the electric switch with an empty tank. The heating element burns out in a minute with no water around it. This is the most common water heater repair we see.

  1. Make sure the bypass valves are set for normal use, not winter.
  2. Turn on city water or the pump.
  3. Open a hot tap inside and let it run until only water comes out, with no spurts of air.
  4. Now turn on the gas switch, the electric switch, or both.

When there is no hot water

  1. Check that the switch inside is on. Some rigs have a second switch outside by the tank.
  2. On gas, listen for a click and a whoosh at the outside door. If it tries three times and stops, turn it off and on again. Air in a new propane line can take a few tries to clear.
  3. Check that the propane tanks are open and not empty.
  4. On electric, check the breaker for the water heater in the panel.
  5. Check the bypass valves. If they are still in winter mode, the tank stays empty.

Draining and the anode

Drain the tank before storage and once or twice a year. Turn it off, let it cool, and open the pressure relief valve to let air in. Then pull the drain plug or the anode rod.

Look at the anode rod when it comes out. If it is eaten down to the steel core, put in a new one. Wrap the threads with plumber's tape. Never run a Suburban tank without its anode.

A little drip from the relief valve while the tank heats is normal. The water grows as it warms. A steady stream is not.

When to call a shop

Call a shop if you smell propane at the outside door, the relief valve pours water, the tank leaks from the body, or the burner flame is yellow and sooty.

The maker's own manuals

These guides cover how most RVs work. Your own rig may differ, so check the manual for your make and model.

Renting from us? Call or text 909-259-RVDR before you try a fix. We would rather talk you through it than have you guess, and it is free.

The other manuals

ManualFresh water and the water heaterCity water, the fresh tank, the pump and the water heater. How to fill it, turn it on and keep it clean.5 partsManualBlack and gray tanksThe order, the hose, the valves and what to put down the toilet. Dumping your tanks the right way, step by step.4 partsManualShore power and batteries30 amp and 50 amp shore power, the 12 volt battery side and the inverter. What runs on what, and how not to trip a breaker.4 partsManualPropane, furnace and fridgeOpening the tanks, lighting the stove, running the furnace and fridge, and what to do if you smell gas.5 partsManualSlide outsWhen to open them, when not to, and what to check first. Slide outs are the most common repair on a rental, and most of it is avoidable.4 partsManualAwningsPower and manual awnings, how to set them, and why wind is the thing that breaks them.4 partsManualWinterizing and spring start upDrain it, bypass the water heater and fill the lines with RV antifreeze. Then how to undo it all in spring.4 partsManualGeneratorsStarting it, loading it, keeping it healthy, and staying safe from exhaust.4 partsManualHitching a trailerCoupler, safety chains, breakaway cable and lights. A simple routine to hitch up the same way every time.4 partsManualThe refrigeratorGas and electric absorption fridges, 12 volt compressor fridges, how long they take to cool and how to keep food cold on the road.4 partsManualThe roof air conditionerHow much power it needs, why it freezes up, how to clean the filters and what to try before you call for help.4 partsManualThe furnaceA propane furnace with a 12 volt fan. How it starts, why it drains the battery and what to check when it blows cold air.4 partsManualLeveling and jacksBlocks, tongue jacks, stabilizers and auto leveling. How to get level, why it matters and why stabilizers are not for lifting.4 partsManualTires, wheels and bearingsTire age, pressure and load, lug nut torque and when to service trailer wheel bearings. The parts that cause the most trouble on the road.4 partsManualTrailer brakes and breakawayElectric brakes, the brake controller in your truck, how to set the gain and how to test the breakaway switch.4 partsManualRoof and sealsWater is the biggest enemy of an RV. How to check the roof and seams, which sealant to use and the signs of a leak.4 partsManualThe toiletHow to flush, what paper to use and how to keep the black tank from clogging or smelling.4 partsManualPropane, smoke and CO alarmsWhere each alarm is, what each one means, how to test them and why the propane alarm sometimes beeps on a low battery.4 partsManualSolar and lithium batteriesHow solar charges your batteries, what lithium changes, and how to tell how much power you really have left.4 partsManualTowing a car behind a motorhomeWhich cars can be towed four down, the gear you need, and the steps before and after every tow.4 partsManualWeight and payloadWhat GVWR, cargo capacity and tongue weight mean, how to weigh your rig, and why sway almost always starts with weight.4 parts
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